Blog: The John Denver Sanctuary
June 7, 2018
Gallery: The Little Mulchatna
September 7, 2018
The Little Mulchatna Lodge
-as told and photographed by Rory Young.(Photo credit for the "barge photo" goes to Peterson Brothers Photography.)
There are magical places in the world that call out to the soul through their simplicity and rugged beauty. Chancing upon them offers discovery and a rejuvenation of the spirit. Visiting and actually spending time at them offers a chance to return to the simpler ways of life. Where things are not so hurried, where the cares of the world are for naught, and the beauty of living transcends everything else.
We seek these magical places because they renew our hearts with beauty. They restore our minds with calmness and reason. They offer a victory in our spirits. They are still waters and a safe harbor in a world of busyness. Rhythmically, we seek these places out and make pilgrimages to them in the hope of reviving our inner being, returning things and events that are spinning too fast back to a sense of normalcy and calmness.
One such magical place is located in the state of Alaska, 170 miles southwest of Anchorage, 14 miles north of Port Alsworth. Nestled in Lake Clark National Preserve and Park. It's called the Little Mulchatna Lodge, or LML, or just "Little Mulchatna". It's so named because it sits at the beginning of the Little Mulchatna River exactly where Fishtrap Lake flows into the mouth of the river. From there, the river winds northwest some 17 miles before eventually flowing into the Chilikadrotna river.
The area is tundra, ranging from low mountains with brushy hillsides and cliffs to gentle hills and valleys with streams and lakes. There are various plants such as blueberry, crowberry, fireweed, and monkshood, and at any moment one can chance upon bear, moose, caribou, porcupine or any of the other various creatures that frequent the area. That there are also mosquitos goes without saying, and one had better be prepared to deal with the little intruders.
To say that the lodge at Little Mulchatna is a magical place may need a bit of explanation. On paper, it could seem like one more among the many wonderful lodges that grace Alaska. However, when you consider its colorful history and the fact that it's the only lodge on remote Fishtrap Lake and one of the few lodges in Lake Clark's vast four million acre preserve, the point begins to become clear. It's accessible only by float plane. The flight from Anchorage takes you westward across the Cook inlet, within sight of two volcanoes (Illiamna and Redoubt), numerous glaciers and rivers and untold mountains and wild places. The flight alone is an adventure of a lifetime; at any point you'll travel close beside mountains, glaciers and waterfalls, over rivers and streams, or above eagles, bear and moose.
Spectacular views are everywhere. This area of Lake Clark National Park is more remote, and you can feel it. In any given year, more visitors travel to Lake Clark NP to visit the more popular areas such as Twin Lakes and the historic cabin that Dick Proenneke built and lived in. That has led the area in and around Little Mulchatna to still be remote, wild and untamed as it ever was.
About as wild as when 22 year old bush pilot Stuart "Stu" Ramstad crashed onto the lake's shoreline less than three years after the land had become a state. Stuart Ramstad was a pilot and third generation gold miner who supposedly had dealt with more than one airplane fire while in the air. He had become a pilot at age 14 (Source: APRN).
On Christmas Day, 1962, Stu's Piper Cub caught fire and he was forced to land near the shore of the lake. His family sent out a search, and he was found, two days later. Ramstad made a homestead claim upon the land consisting of 80 acres and returned to the location, whereupon he built the first cabin ( later to be identified as the cabin that John Denver loved and sang about) five years later, in 1967.
Stu then built more cabins using local pine trees from the surrounding area and operated the place as an Alaskan fly-in lodge for decades. The current main lodge was originally two separate cabins; Ramstad realized he could tear down some of the walls and build upon it to make a larger, main lodge in order to better accommodate both living conditions and clients.
Today, there are a total of seven original cabin structures on the property, plus a three-sided outhouse that does not have a door. There are three log-built cabins, a main lodge, and side buildings: • one next to and overlooking the lake, called "John's cabin", • one behind it, overlooking the Little Mulchatna River, • and one closer to the main lodge, called the "Boar's nest". • the main lodge, • a log-built bath house with shower and flush toilet, • generator building ( in back of the lodge ) and • boat house ( to hold fishing tackle and equipment ).
Additionally, there are two docks that give service to Fishtrap Lake, as well as a platform in front of the bath house that was built to accommodate the wood-heated hot tub that singer-songwriter John Denver had flown in.
In 1968, Ramstad received notice from the Bureau of Land Management that his land claim was not valid. He was ordered to cease the use of the land, and remove all improvements, thereby returning the land to its natural state. Ramstad responded, and a series of give and take ensued, which included his being charged with trespass, among other items. Ramstad appealed the initiative to remove the lodge, and after several years of heartfelt, hard work, he was awarded possession of the Little Mulchatna Lodge. Thus, the lodge and its history were preserved.
Speaking of John Denver, he first became interested in the lodge while working on his film, "American Child". Two years earlier, while putting together the movie segments, Denver happened upon Ramstad and his bush piloting skills through a mutual acquaintance named Earl "Red" Dodge. Red was also an Alaskan bush pilot, and was featured in the film. A thank you, here, to Red's grand-daughter, who graciously helped to fill in some of this story concerning Red and his connection to John Denver. John spent many summers visiting the Dodge family in Anchorage in between trips to Little Mulchatna. The lodge has always been a special place to the Dodge family, and they forever share a legacy with the land, as the ashes of Mike Dodge ( Red's son ) are buried there. Red's grand-daughter also writes that she still cherishes the videos that she has of John and Cassie at the lodge. It features them singing as well as other fun times; she hopes to someday finish editing them. When she does, she hopes to share them with the Lodge, so the current lodge owner and others there can enjoy the special moments.
John spent many summers visiting the Dodge family in Anchorage in between trips to Little Mulchatna, and even speaks about Dodge on an episode of Fly Fishing Alaska. The lodge has always been a special place to the Dodge family, and they forever share a legacy with the land, as the ashes of Mike Dodge ( Red's son ) are buried there. [She] also writes that she still cherishes the videos that she has, of John and Cassie at the lodge. It features them singing as well as other fun times; she hopes to someday finish editing them. When she does, she hopes to share them with the Lodge, so the current lodge owner and others there can enjoy the special moments.
40 Comments
Thanks for posting this Rory! Will miss your familiar face this week.
Oh, I will be there, Friday evening! 🙂 Thank you!
Hi Rory! Great writing. Beautiful pictures. Super intriguing backstory. Thank you!
This is great Rory, and the photos are spectacular. Thanks.
Thank you, Susie! I really appreciate your kind comments!
Time for a very colorful book Rory . This place is very magical and JD fans around the world would love to see a hardcover book of LM.
Thank you, sir! I guess I can start work on that hardcover book!
This is a wonderful story. Thank you so very much for sharing with all of us who love John and Alaska.
Robin in Talkeetna
Thank you! I’m so glad that you enjoyed the story!
Beautiful story. Gorgeous photos. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you, Robin! I love your town, we visit there whenever we’re up north of Anchorage! ( I visited Alaska twice, this year! )
Hi Rory would love to go and see this lodge some day I an also a very true fan of john he’s song were always inspiring to me and probley a million more people. Thank you for writing this article and letting people now I part of john that not to many people new about. I had a very good chance of meeting John one day at a hotel in grand junction but missed it by being to shy to say hi to him but will always remember that moment in time.
Great article and amazing pictures. I live in bordering Yukon… and Alaska is my second home as it was my favorite singer’s second home….perhaps some day on one of my many visits I will come and play on that piano he played and soak in that same hot tub and sleep in the same bed he once did just because. Thank you very much for sharing all this with us.
Thank you! If you do visit, you’ll feel just as at home in the wilderness as he did!
The photos are wonderful, the scenery majestic and your skill at photography is amazing. I thank you for sharing. May I share too? I enjoyed your narrative so much, made me miss John Denver and I would love to visit the lake too. I agree that it would make a wo derful book!
Thank you, Beverley, and please feel free to share! 🙂
WOW!! This is so AWESOME!!!! Thank you so much for doing this. This is the most I have ever read in one place on the subject. You are such a blessing Rory. THanks for all you do!!
Thank you! I figured that it was time to write it down before I forgot more than I already have, lol. 🙂
Hi Rory would love to go and see this lodge some day I an also a very true fan of john he’s song were always inspiring to me and probley a million more people. Thank you for writing this article and letting people now I part of john that not to many people new about. I had a very good chance of meeting John one day at a hotel in grand junction but missed it by being to shy to say hi to him but will always remember that moment in time.
Rory, Thank you for sharing such a great story. I was fortunate to be living in Colorado in the 70’s and have been a fan of JD ever since.
Your evening shot (blue) of the cabin and captioned, “The “Cabin on Little Mulchatna”, immortalized in the song “Alaska and Me”, by singer/songwriter John Denver”, is proof of heaven on earth, if there ever was. How may I get a copy to use as wallpaper on my laptop? Thanks again, Larry W.
Thank you, Larry! Colorado in the 70’s was so idyllic! I visited several times, then, but of course was too young to make a decision on living there! Thanks for your wonderful and kind compliment! I saw the scene… the moon coming up is sort of uncommon.. even rare… for two main reasons: 1.) If one visits near the solstice, you won’t see nightfall… and 2.) If you’re lucky enough to visit later in the year, the clouds are fairly common, limiting the view of the night sky. So, this photo was lucky… when I saw the moon coming up, I ran out and shot it… Had to use a tripod to get the lighting right. As for the image, please check and see if you can right-click the image and save it… on my iPad I can long-press the image, and a “Save” dialog opens… so please try that and if not, let me know… I’d be happy to email it to you! 🙂
I do so so thank you for this blog which I just discovered today when yesterday I discovered that my long-unseen friend and bush-pilot had passed just this year. Stu was our main pilot during the 1970’s when my little family homesteaded on the Stony River and I worked part-time off and on at Sparevohn Air Force Base just a very short flight from the Stony. I helped him out a few times here and there at his Lake Hood tie-down and with his brown striped Cessna 180 (think it was a 180) so in reality he was way more a friend to us then us to him. In 2015 I ran across his name and phone number to discover he also now lived in Wasilla so I thought I’d call him up as I was in the process of contacting several of some of the most important people in my life to personally thank them so they’d know how grateful I remained thru the years to have known them. BUT thru that Stu I contact I never got around to making, kept putting it off till “tomorrow”; learned a very valuable lesson – NEVER put off giving thanks cause you never know when you might miss your chance to do so personally. So fly-on Stu in your new home and many many thanks for the existence of THIS BLOG.
Thank you, Rich. It’s so wonderful to meet someone who was there in the early days. I only met Stu later in life ( both in Colorado and several times in Alaska.) You always knew where you stood with Stu, as he made no small talk, and he kept the main thing the main thing. He wasn’t perfect, but he loved his family and friends and worked so hard for their quality of life. I’m so glad to be able to make this a place where your voice, Stu’s memory, and the love of the Alaskan land can be available for people to see what was and what still is. And, hopefully, we can work together to keep the beauty of what we have, for those who come after us. My small part in that is to preserve the beauty through photography, and to tell the story in some small part. Thank you, again, for sharing your memories of Alaska and your friend, Stu Ramstad. I, and so many others, cherish and appreciate you.
These are the most lovely photos ever my friend….I surely did enjoy looking at them because I will never get to see all of them in person because of my poor health…
So it is wonderful to experience it all through your eyes and photos….
Thank you, Kay! I’m so glad to be able to show you the beauty of the place. It’s so pretty, there.
Rory, I so enjoyed reading your blog and viewing more of your wonderful photos. I would love to visit John’s cabin one day! Maybe if they ever need help with work, I could get a trip for free labor…ha…anyway, you are blessed and we are blessed that you have so eloquently shared the history and your beautiful photos! Stay well my friend!
Thank you, Lori! Lol, I think they receive plenty of volunteer requests! That might not be a bad thing!
It’s easy to see why John was so endeared to this beautiful place, and called it “home”. I have spen times in the mountains in Colorado in years gone by, seen some very majestic vistas, but nothing like what I see here. I know from experience when I’ve been in Colorado, the music just flows, easily. If I can just finish my recovery from numerous surgeries to stop ‘osteoarthritis”, I long to return to some of my favorite places in Colorado, and perhaps, some day will be able to see this beautiful place you have captured so majestically in person, and make some music of my own. Take good care, and thanks for preserving John’s legacy, and this majestic place for future generations. I can’t think of any place on God’s earth more spectacular.
Thank you, John. I pray your health goes well, and perhaps some day you may be able to visit the northern, wild land. It’s such a beautiful place. Many have worked so hard to preserve it for our future generations.
Hi Rory, What a wonderful story, I never knew a lot about the place that JD loved so much. Thank you so much for sharing it with everyone. I have got happy tears running down my face as I am writing this. You have brought so many memories back about JD that I had forgotten, thanks for all the magic. I know that JD’s “Spirit” is with us when we read your stories.
Hi there,
My name is Diana Ramstad. Stuart Ramstad was my father. I grew up at the Little Mulchatna Lodge. I was interested in some of the things you talk about in this blog simply because I lived through a lot of it. Just to point out: in the song “Alaska and Me”, the first line is “I was born in a log cabin on the Little Mulchatna”. That line actually refers to me, as the lodge was in my family since before I was born. We still own the land across the lake from where the original lodge is at. Also, the piano that is claimed to have been John’s actually belonged to my step-mom, Wendy Ramstad. My Father actually flew that piano in on his Cessna 185. I was with him when he hauled it to the lodge. Wendy played the piano, and is still alive.
Anyway, I’m leaving my contact information, as well. I currently attend the University of Alaska at Fairbanks where I am currently an Art major specializing in Ceramics and a minor in Elementary Education. I plan to get my post BAC in Special Education. I hope to teach in the rural/bush communities; I have flown to many of them with my Father. I always enjoy the pictures of my home that I grew up at. We usually stayed there in the summers. Please feel free to contact me if you would like answers to any questions about my Father, the lodge and even John Denver. Thank you!
Hi Diana,
I purchased a photograph that John Denver took in Alaska.
It is of a beautiful lake with trees on both sides and it has an orange and black plane in the background.
I was wondering if perhaps it could be your Dad’s. Just watched Let This Be A Voice again last night. I’m sure you have many cherished memories!
Thank you!
Hi Diana,
I just recently purchased a photograph that John Denver took at a lake in Alaska.
There is a black and orange plane in the background. I was wondering if it might be your Father’s.
I just watched “Let This Be A Voice” again last night. What a beautiful film with beautiful people.
I’m sure you cherish the memories and I’m so glad to hear that you still own property in that precious place.
I hope your education is continuing as planned. I taught for 30 years with a master’s in early childhood. I commend you for striving to teach the young ones in this area. We all need dedicated people like you! I hope you are doing well.
Thank you!
Hi Jeanne, my Fathers plane is a Green and White Cessna 185. He purchased it in 1969 and flew it from New York State. The plane is still in use by a lovely Couple as my Father has passed away. I love the Little Mulchatna it’s always my home. Also I graduated from University of Alaska Fairbanks in Summer 2020. I currently design online curriculum 👍
Thank you for this beautiful story of people who love and protect nature … your photos are beautiful, and made me travel in this wild and unspoiled country, too far from home so that I hope one day to discover visu … JD put his stamp on this place he loved, and you continue this mission with all those who take care of LML by showing the beauty of its animals and landscapes. It’s a comfort that there are people doing this, thanks again to you and your sweet lady.
Cathy, thank you! It has been an honor to have been able to connect with the wild location and write this story. It’s taken several years, and has totally been a story of labor and love. I really appreciate your kind comments. Peace, my friend, 🙂
As talk of you returning lately, I have done some research of this area. I am amazed and in awe of the beauty of Alaska, this area and your photography! Of course, it doesn’t hurt that the John Denver connection is there as well. I love your storytelling of what you know, your friends who helped fill in the storyline and your experiences. Thank you so much for being the person you are and keeping this in your repertoire!
Beautiful photos..I can see John in all those photo’s..it is his escape from the world. I also did see a picture of him in that hot tub lol.
Thank you for allowing us to share in some of John’s life!!
Hi Rory,
I just came across your blog.
What a treasure you have in story and pictures.
Thank you so much for sharing it!
Thank you, Roey for in wonderful blog…..I had not heard any of this info about John and Little M! It’s on my bucket list to see Clark cause I’ve watched Alone in the Wilderness sooooo many times. I have been to Alaska 4 times to visit my dear dear friend, one of the Iditarod Founders, Gleao Huyck, and would absolutely be in heaven if I got to Clark….Because I am 81 I hope I get there ..had planned to go last summer but Covid interfered!
I loved your blog. I’d like to pass it to another JD lover if you don’t mind?
Bless you. Stay well and safe!